What Made Those Holes in My Lawn & Who Ate My Flowers?

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Any time we are cohabitating with wildlife, there are going to be clashes. Many of the things we do to make our landscape beautiful and productive are the exact things that attract wildlife. But, there are ways to live side-by-side without them ruining our lawns or eating all the veggies from the garden.

Aside from deer –  the ultimate nuisance – rabbits, squirrels, groundhogs, moles, and some bird species all contribute to the unraveling of all your hard work. This is especially true in early fall when many animals try to fatten up in preparation for the cold winter ahead. 

Animals will live where there is food, water, and shelter. And, because we are continually encroaching on their habitats, they learn that where there is people, there is abundance. 

Well-maintained lawns that are rich in soil and nutrients is the perfect environment for moles and voles to tunnel in. There are plenty of worms, grubs and insects for them to feast upon. Fruit trees and vegetable gardens are a dream come true for raccoons, woodchucks, rabbits, and squirrels. The deer will eat practically anything when hungry enough. 

Here are some solutions to these pesky creatures:

  • Fencing goes a long way toward keeping critters away. For those that tunnel and dig, fences should be buried into the ground a bit. 
  • Keep your yard free of debris like piles of branches and overgrown shrubs. This provides cover and nesting sites for many animals. And if they decide to live in your yard they’ll eat your plantings. 
  • Don’t overwater your lawn. It attracts the grubs which are a favorite treat for moles and raccoons. 
  • Wrap the lower parts of trees to keep animals from stripping the bark. 
  • Don’t keep pet food and water outside. Bird feeders are also an attractant as seeds fall to the ground, small mammals find and eat it. 
  • Plant items with strong smells that herbivores dislike such as lavender, rosemary, and marigolds.  
  • Install a motion-detector sprinkler or light. 

Place a realistic owl decoy in a shrub near plantings. The more realistic it looks, the better. Hunting stores have ones with plumage.

Don’t Let Invasive Plants Wreak Havoc on your Landscape

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This past June, New York hosted its New York Invasive Species Awareness Week. If you missed it, here is a better understanding of what invasive species are and why we need to become more aware of them.

Invasive plants are plants that are not native to our region. They’ve been introduced from other regions and are extremely successful at spreading at a rapid rate. Left alone to spread, they cause ecological harm to our region. 

Invasive plants spread quickly because the insects and diseases that plague them in their native lands are missing from our habitat, giving the invasive plant free rein wherever they take hold. Their spread crowds out their competitors, which are our native plants. 

The following invasive plants arrived in New York from all over the world. Some are beautiful, but all of them can cause serious problems for native plants and even animal species.  Here are ten of the invasive plants affecting our area:

Common Reed – It outcompetes and replaces native plants. It also produces mesoxalic acid, which is a toxin harmful to many plants.

Garlic Mustard – This invasive herb chokes out native plants by controlling light, water and nutrient resources needed by other plants.

Giant Hogweed – This gigantic member of the carrot family is one of the most dangerous invasive species in New York due to its ability to cause permanent scarring by painful burns caused by its sap. Because of this potential harm, always call the DEC instead of trying to take these plants out by yourself. It’s size blocks the sunlight smaller plants need to thrive.

Honeysuckle – There are both native and invasive species of honeysuckle present in our region. Invasive varieties can primarily be distinguished by their hollow stems. These plants’ dense growth suppress other native species. They are also less nutritious and can harm migrating animals that eat the berries.

Japanese Barberry – Because it is shade tolerant, Japanese barberry can threaten native species in a variety habitats ranging from closed canopy forests, to woodlands, wetlands, pastures, meadows and wasteland. It grows in dense stands that can inhibit forest regeneration.

Japanese Knotweed – A member of the buckwheat family, this plant can grow up to fifteen feet tall and looks like bamboo. Its swift spread crowds out other plants.

Japanese Stiltgrass – This invasive decreases biodiversity by out-competing native grasses, sedges, and herbs. Areas infested by this plant often have high occurrences of other invasive plants.

Purple Loosestrife – While pretty, purple loosestrife can rapidly out-compete and displace native species. It creates a canopy that suppresses growth and regeneration, and can pose a problem for nesting birds and waterfowl. Their dense root system can also raise the water table and reduce water flow.

Swallow-wort – The quick growth of this invasive prevents native species from growing. This loss of biodiversity can harm native animal species that feed on native plants. Native birds and monarch butterflies are specifically threatened.

Wild Parsnip – Like giant hogweed, wild parsnip sap contains chemicals that can cause a severe burn within 48 hours. It can cause skin discoloration that can lead to years of light sensitivity. Call the DEC if you discover this plant.

The Cornell Cooperative Extension is offering free invasive species identification services this year to help stop the spread of these plants. You can email a photo of a suspected plant to dm282@cornell.edu.

Image by Dieter Staab from Pixabay

Grow Vertical: Trellises & Pergolas & Arbors

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pergola with yellow leaves and flowersThere’s a period of time toward the end of summer when avid gardeners and homeowners who love their yards begin to mourn prematurely the end of their favorite season – summer. For those of you in this group, here’s a perfect way to continue working in the yard while setting up a thing of beauty for next spring.

Trellises, arbors, and pergolas add both function and elegance to any garden or backyard. Whether used in your vegetable garden, to hide unsightly air conditioning units, or as a romantic seating area, these structures can be as simple or elaborate as desired. And, while roses are one classic choice, there are many other plants that add beauty, shade, and privacy.

Whether made by you out of branches found around your landscape, purchased as a kit, or delivered to your yard fully constructed, what starts out as a functional support for plants becomes a beautiful focal point and destination. Constructed now, with plantings going in once the dog days of August are over, watching these plants begin to twine in spring is exhilarating.

Here are some vining plants we recommend for your arbor, trellis, or pergola:

Honeysuckle – This hardy plant, left unpruned quickly begins to vine. They produce orange-red, trumpet shaped flowers that are beloved by humming birds and butterflies.

Clematis – While clematis may take a few years before beginning to flower, once it does it will reward you with a multitude of blooms. Born to climb, they come in a wide variety of colors.

Climbing Roses – In addition to their beauty, climbing roses have an intoxicating scent. They grow best on a trellis up against your house. Patience is key as it sometimes takes three to five years for prolific flowering.

Trumpet Creeper – this plant is native to our region and is drought resistant. It is a fast grower and can quickly reach 40 feet with tubular flowers that will bloom throughout the summer months.

Wisteria – The scent of wisteria in unforgettable. Producing white or purple flowers in spring, this woody vine will drape flowers over your arbor or pergola like grapes.

Climbing Hydrangea – This vine grows well in both full sun or partial shade. The vines are so it needs substantial support. You can leave drying flowers on the vine as they keep their shape even after their foliage begins to fall.

 

 

Fall: The Best Time to Fix Drainage Problems

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The Hudson Valley had a particularly wet spring. If you had water collecting in your yard, fall is the best time to act. Aside from the aesthetics of standing water in your yard and the inability to utilize your yard the way you’d like, drainage issues can lead to some serious and costly problems. 

Here are some signs that you have drainage problems:

  • Cracks in your foundation can be caused by water that collects right around your house. 
  • Water that has exposed roots, gutted out areas of your lawn, or created swampy sections. This erosion washes away many of the nutrients that your lawn and plantings need to thrive.
  • Water leaking into your basement or garage means water is pooling up around your foundation.
  • A constantly running sump pump means that water from poor drainage is consistently entering your home.
  • Plants and shrubs that have fungus or mold in wetter areas of your yard.
poor drainage conditions

Poor Drainage Conditions

Causes of Poor Drainage

  • Poor Yard pitch or slope either toward or away from your home will result in water running to the downslope.
  • A depression in your landscape will cause rainwater to collect, causing puddles or soggy areas that take forever to dry up. 
  • Impacted soil makes it difficult for rain or snow to be absorbed, so it just sits on top.
  • Pathways around your house and yard can act like a dam, retaining water. 
  • Lack of or improperly installed downspouts make it hard to divert rainwater away from your house.

DRY CREEK and OTHER FIXES

Dry creek landscaping

The good news is that these are problems Augustine Nursery can fix by:

  • Grading the soil incrementally away from your house, patios, walkways, and driveway
  • Installing a dry creek that is both beautiful and functional to redirect water
  • Building French drains – an underground drainage system – to move water to a designated area
  • Permeable pavers for pathways can alleviate water build up in walkways.
  • Add a water feature to give your yard a place for excess water to collect.
Dry creek landscaping

Dry Creek Landscaping

French Drain

French Drain

Right now, before the winter snow accumulation and the spring thaw, is the perfect time to put your drainage problems to bed. Just remember, the Grand Canyon was created by a small flow of water, so don’t underestimate its power of erosion. Ask Augustine how to channel your drainage problems away. 

Preparing your Lawn for the Dog Days of Summer

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The spring weather is beautiful right now. But before long we’ll find ourselves in the dog days of summer. Scorching heat without end and long periods without rain. Even the best cared-for lawns suffer under these conditions.

The key to maintaining a healthy lawn in the peak of summer heat comes down to two things – water and mowing. Here are a few tips for lawn mavens and newbies alike:

water hose and grassWatering Your lawn

Many people think the answer to summer heat is watering, watering, watering. However when soil is constantly wet, it causes diseases. Grass only needs one inch of water per week, including rainfall. Less frequent, thorough waterings are better than more frequent, shallow ones. Giving your lawn a deep watering promotes deeper root growth resulting in greater drought tolerance. Water your lawn in the morning when cooler. This allows more of the water to soak into the ground instead of evaporating. And, once you start watering your lawn for the season, don’t stop. Keep to a habit of watering once a week unless there’s been a good rain.

lawn mower and lawnMowing Your Lawn

When mowing your summer lawn, keep two things in mind – height of the cut and mower blades.

Your lawn does not have to be cut short to look neat and trim. Set your blades as high as possible. Your grass has a crown from which the new growth emerges. If your lawn is cut too short it reduces its ability to grow well. A longer blade of grass shades the crown and protects it from burning. In addition tall blades of grass are able to get more light during peak sun hours and therefore more nutrients. And, the taller grass helps maintain moisture in the soil. If you know what type of grass you have, ask us at Augustine Nursery what the proper cutting height is for your lawn.

Make sure the blades of your mower are kept sharp. When grass is cut with a dull blade, it tears the plant tissue making it more susceptible to stress and disease. A sharp blade will keep your lawn greener as the cut edge will heal instead of turning brown.

One last mowing tip – Do not bag your clippings. Use a mulch mower that returns clippings to the lawn. Clippings act as a slow-release fertilizer as they decompose and shades the soil, keeping moisture from evaporating.